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Hostages Beaten and Forced to Convert to Islam

The Korean missionaries taken hostage by the Taliban have broken their silence and explained some of the ordeal they went through:

"We were beaten by them many times, being forced to convert to Islam," Je Chang-hee told a news conference with 20 other fellow ex-hostages at a hospital south of Seoul, where the Christian volunteers have been receiving medical treatment since they returned home 10 days ago.

"They kicked us and beat us with guns and tree branches. Sometimes, they aimed their bayonet-topped rifles at our necks," Je said, adding that he had been held in a mountain cave with three other hostages. Je said he and the others pretended to recite Islamic conversion prayers by muttering some Korean words.  […]

"My group was kept in a closed place like a shed (at a Taliban home) but we were not allowed to go out … it was like suffocating," said Cha Hae-jin, a female hostage.

She said the food was not suitable and that the captives vomited and suffered diarrhea, with some showing symptoms of dehydration. "Four of us once had to share two potatoes for one day," Cha said.

Je said his group of captives were forced to work.

"We lived like slaves. We had to level the ground for motorbikes, and get water (from a well) and make a fire," Je said, showing the worn-out, dirty short-sleeve shirt and trousers he wore throughout the captivity. [CNN]

No word yet if some of the hostages were in fact sexually assaulted but I wouldn’t be surprised if they were.  I’m a am surprised that they admitted to converting to Islam considering they are Christian missionaries. 

Korea Finder #52

Who can name what and where this is?:

Here are this year’s current Korea Finder Leader’s Board:

Mark – 10
Sonagi – 5
James – 2
Mike – 2
Chickenhead – 2
Peekstr – 1
HumKor – 1
Farty – 1
Maui – 1
kcbill06 – 1
CPT Kim – 1
Tim – 1
Surabol – 1
Brendon Carr – 1
Dr. Yu – 1

Note that who ever totals the most points at the end of the year, I will purchase for them a Korea related book or DVD of their choice using the proceeds I have accumulated by people purchasing books from Amazon.com on my website. If you like this website than please support it by buying your books, DVDs, and other products from Amazon.com from the search box on my sidebar. Thanks.

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Vietnam War Memorial Vandalized

UPDATE #2: I’m not the surprised but the vandalism of war memorials is widespread across the country.  The communists and anarchists usually responsible for these crimes are marching on DC this weekend.  There are a variety of groups that are going to counter-protest against them.  If you are living in the area and support the troops this is a good way to show your support by standing up to these communist idiots that are a disgrace to our country.

_______________________________________________________

UPDATE #1: The vandalism of war memorials has not only occurred in Washington, DC but in California as well:

Vandals have hit the Veterans War Memorial at Sacramento’s Capitol Park. Veterans say it is a recurring problem and now they’re fighting back.

He spent 3 years serving in Vietnam, and now Ken Nelson spends his days taking care of those who didn’t make it back.

“This is the second best memorial in the country,” Nelson says.

Nearly every day, Nelson protects the more than 5,200 names at the Vietnam War Memorial. But often, while polishing the bronze statues, he finds himself picking up what vandals left behind.

“People sleeping, use it for a toilet, total disrespect, it kind of hurt me,” he says.

Nelson says it’s been going on for some time. People litter, deface the statues, climb the flag pole, and just yesterday, sprayed graffiti. [CBS13 Sacramento]

Make sure you click to link and watch the video.  I really respect those veterans that constantly clean and repair the memorial after it is defaced by the usual idiots.  I hope the Sacramento community rallies around these veterans to protect the memorial.

_______________________________________________________

This is disgraceful:

The U.S. Park Police are investigating suspected vandalism at the Vietnam Veterans Memorial on the Mall.

Volunteers and National Park Service rangers on Saturday discovered a “light, oily” substance on the memorial’s wall panels and the paving stones in front of it, Bill Line, a Park Service spokesman, said yesterday.

The substance, which has not been identified, was spread over an area of about 50 to 60 feet, mostly on the paving stones, Mr. Line said. [Natasha Altamirano, Washington Times]

It has not been confirmed yet who did this but I would not be surprised if the leftist protesters who vowed to deface the memorial before and were in D.C. again due to General Petraeus’ report to Congress did this.  Here is a picture from this set of pictures of the damage to the wall:

As you can see the substance was corrosive and damaged the names on the wall.  Michelle Malkin has video footage of the damage:

No matter what your opinion on the Iraq war is defacing the memorial is just disgraceful. It may be time for the government to install a video camera or a 24 hour guard on the memorial to protect the memorial and others that have been defaced in DC from the leftist scum.  If proven to be done by the usual suspect leftists it just serves as another example that they do not support troops and they never did.

Is a US-North Korea Summit a Possibility?

Via K.U. Studies comes news that President Bush may be considering a summit meeting with Kim Jong-il:

U.S. President George W. Bush would likely meet with North Korean Kim Jong-il if the Stalinist state shows its willingness to dismantle its nuclear weapons program, even if its nuclear program is not fully dismantled, a local report said Monday, quoting an unidentified U.S. diplomat.

The Washington source, quoted by the Kyunghyang Shinmun, said the Bush-Kim summit would be “doable” before the end of the Bush administration if Pyongyang is serious about the denuclearization on the Korean Peninsula.

The source said U.S.-North Korea summit talks could take place in the North Korean capital Pyongyang. [Jung Sung-ki, Korea Times]

First of all this report is coming from the Korea Times, which is not the most reliable of newspapers.  Secondly, it is coming from the State Department which are the same people that brought us Madeline Albright toasting Kim Jong-il and what did that get us?  Thirdly, it would be political suicide for any US president to visit Pyongyang without North Korea completely and verifiably dismantling their nuclear weapons program. 

Finally, I believe no US president should visit Pyongyang if North Korea does pull back troops from the DMZ along with improving human rights conditions.  If such conditions are not met why reward Kim Jong-il with a visit to Pyongyang?  Instead demand he travel to Seoul like he promised Kim Dae-jung in 2000 that he would.  A visit by the US president without significant improvements in North Korean behavior will only serve to fulfill North Korean propaganda.  Sadly in order to keep "the myth of progress" alive, the US State Department appears willing to do this. 

North Korea Ties US in World Cup Match

This is probably at least a moral victory for North Korea:

Blood streaming from a gash on the top of her head, Abby Wambach came off the field. For 10 minutes, the United States played short-handed while she got stitches.

North Korea didn’t waste its chance.

The United States allowed a pair of goals while Wambach was off the field — one on a blunder by goalkeeper Hope Solo — then rallied for a 2-2 tie Tuesday in its opener at the Women’s World Cup. [AP]

Japanese Prime Minister Abe Resigns

This news isn’t really all that surprising considering his low poll numbers and recent electoral defeats:

Japanese Prime Minister Shinzo Abe announced Wednesday he will resign, ending a year-old government that has suffered a string of damaging scandals and a humiliating electoral defeat.

Abe, said he was quitting to pave the way for ruling and opposition parties to work together to approve the extension of Tokyo‘s naval mission in support of the U.S.-led operation in Afghanistan.

"In the present situation it is difficult to push ahead with effective policies that win the support and trust of the public," Abe said in a nationally televised news conference. "I have decided that we need a change in this situation."

Abe, a nationalist whose support rating has plunged to 30 percent, also cited the ruling party’s defeat in July 29 elections, in which the opposition took control of the upper house of parliament. [Chisaki Watanabe, AP]

The word is that former foreign minister Taro Aso is Abe’s most likely successor.  Whoever the next Prime Minister is I would be shocked if it caused any changes in the current Japanese government’s policies towards North Korea.  However, does it strike anyone as odd that he would resign over a political fight to extend a naval deployment where the Japanese Navy is just refueling ships?  I suspect there is more to this story. 

You can read more reactions to this news over at Japan Probe, Japundit, & Ampontan.

President Roh in the Headlines

President Roh has made plenty of headlines in Korea in the last 24 hours.  First of all North Korea released an official message thanking various world leaders for providing flood relief in the aftermath of the floods that hit North Korea this summer.  Guess who they failed mention?:

North Korean leader Kim Jong-il has extended thanks to the leaders of 11 countries for their help in flood relief efforts, the North’s state media reported Tuesday, but the name of President Roh Moo-hyun was not included.

"He expressed deep appreciation for their sincere sympathy and warm-hearted comfort," the Korean Central Broadcasting Station said. [Yonhap]

Yes that is right, Roh Moo-hyun who is the world’s largest North Korea apologizer and aid provider couldn’t even get a message of thanks from Kim Jong-il.

Next Roh was making headlines because he says he won’t raise the nuclear issue with Kim Jong-il during the upcoming inter-Korean summit:

President Roh Moo-hyun said Tuesday that a Korean Peninsula peace treaty to formally end the 1950-53 Korean War will be the most important agenda item at his summit summit talks with North Korean leader Kim Jong-il slated for Oct. 2-4 in Pyongyang. […]

In a hastily arranged news conference at Cheong Wa Dae, Roh, meanwhile, said he won’t raise the issue of the North’s denuclearization seriously at the upcoming inter-Korean summit, noting the nuclear issue has already been in the process of rapid settlement at the six-party talks which also involve the U.S., China, Japan and Russia. [Yonhap]

It is pretty clear now why Roh was so pissed off at President Bush during the APEC meeting because he wanted to center his legacy around being the Korean leader that officially ended the Korean War.  This may be why the inter-Korean summit was delayed so Roh could try and pressure Bush during the APEC meeting to sign a peace treaty with North Korea before they denuclearize.  There is no way Bush or any American president is going to sign a peace treaty with North Korea before denuclearization.  It would be political suicide.  The end of Roh Moo-hyun can not come any sooner for Korea because he needs to go before he causes irrepairable damage to the US-ROK relationship. 

In further inter-Korean summit news, Roh Moo-hyun will not bring up human rights for North Koreans either:

The National Human Rights Commission held a meeting on Monday of all 11 members and vetoed the idea of recommending that President Roh Moo-hyun includes North Korea’s human rights violations on the agenda of the summit with the communist country set for next month. [Chosun Ilbo]

But get this, the NHRC was against the Zaytun deployment to Iraq because they felt it would violate the human rights of Iraqis.  I guess building toilets for Kurds is more of a human right violation than holding hundreds of thousands of people in slave labor gulags. 

Finally Roh made headlines with the removal of his policy planning secretary Byeon Yang-kyoon due to a "close relationship" between him and the disgraced Dongguk University assistant professor Shin Jeong-ah who was exposed as using fraudulent degrees to earn her position:

The prosecution said they have found e-mails that showed Byeon and Shin were personally close, but refused to disclose the content. “We do not disclose private matters which are not directly related to a crime,” they added.  Cheong Wa Dae, which accepted Byeon’s resignation, said Byeon had “close ties” with Shin.  A prosecutor said the two exchanged about “100 love letters,” some of which contained “explicit lines.” [Kim Rahn, Korea Times]

It has not been a good week Roh Moo-hyun, but his upcoming World’s Most Expensive Photo Op should make him feel better as "peace and prosperity" is just around the corner according to Roh. 

Defending General Petraeus

If you haven’t already seen or read General Petraeus’ testimony to Congress already I have his complete testimony and accompanying Powerpoint slides posted at Forward Deployed.  Additionally I have posted the full page ad taken out in the New York Times by Moveon.org smearing General Petraeus. 

I highly recommend that everyone read my posting on this that totally destroys the leftist fantasies dreamed up in the Moveon.org ad.

The Effort to Destroy General Petraeus

I don’t think there is any greater indication that General Petraeus is the right man for the job in Iraq than the absolute offensive the far left and their media allies have launched to destroy General Petraeus.  The full page advertisement that the George Soros funded leftist political group Moveon.org bought in the New York Times to slime General Petraeus is another example of this along with a host of other examples I have listed before. 

Now why is the left and their media allies trying so hard to destroy General Petraeus when they have never attacked other commanding generals in Iraq like they are Petraeus?  It is because the left is scared of him.  They see Petraeus as someone that can turn the effort in Iraq around and they must destroy him before he can do such thing.  The left needs a strategic defeat in Iraq in order to realize their own political ambitions in the 2008 presidential election.  Notice that none of the leading Democratic presidential contenders have condemned the actions of groups like Moveon.org to smear General Petraeus.  Barrack Obama’s campaign pretty much defended the add while Hillary Clinton’s campaign tried to change the subject:

Update at 3:35 p.m. ET. Democratic presidential campaigns begin to respond:

• Bill Burton, a spokesman for Sen. Barack Obama: "Sen. Obama’s question is not about Gen. Petraeus’s patriotism. It’s about his logic," Burton says in an e-mail response to a request from us for a comment about the MoveOn ad. "There’s no evidence that this surge is producing the political progress needed to resolve the civil war in Iraq, or that it will be accomplished through more of the same."

We’ve asked for comments from the campaigns of Sen. Hillary Rodham Clinton and John Edwards, and will pass them along after we get them.

Update at 4:15 p.m. ET. A response from the Clinton campaign:

"America’s troops have done all that has been asked of them and then some, but the reality is that there is no military solution to what is going on in Iraq, which is why our focus must remain on getting the president to change course," Clinton campaign spokesman Phil Singer says in an e-mail he just sent us. "It is unfortunate that Republican presidential candidates are focused on generating a political sideshow instead of discussing the president’s failed war policy. Senator Clinton is going to keep her focus where it should be, on ending the war." [Mark Memmott & Jill Lawrence, USA Today]

Let’s take a look at the claims from Moveon.org’s hit piece.  Here is their first claim:

General Petraeus is a military man constantly at war with the facts. In 2004, just before the election, he said there was “tangible progress” in Iraq and that “Iraqi leaders are stepping forward.” And last week Petraeus, the architect of the escalation of troops in Iraq, said, “We say we have achieved progress, and we are obviously going to do everything we can to build on that progress.”

Notice the selected quotes by the Moveon.org advertisement.  When dealing with these leftist groups it is important to actually read in entirety what someone wrote instead of just believing the selected quotes from these people.  So let’s look at what Petraeus actually said:

Helping organize, train and equip nearly a quarter-million of Iraq’s security forces is a daunting task. Doing so in the middle of a tough insurgency increases the challenge enormously, making the mission akin to repairing an aircraft while in flight — and while being shot at. Now, however, 18 months after entering Iraq, I see tangible progress. Iraqi security elements are being rebuilt from the ground up.

The institutions that oversee them are being reestablished from the top down. And Iraqi leaders are stepping forward, leading their country and their security forces courageously in the face of an enemy that has shown a willingness to do anything to disrupt the establishment of the new Iraq. [Washington Post]

Moveon.org got their quotes from an editorial that General Petraeus wrote for the Washington Post in September 2004 in regards to his job of reestablishing the Iraqi Army which he began in 2004.  Notice the quote "tangible progress" is not in regards to Iraq as Moveon.org claims but in regards to the Iraqi security forces that he was building from the ground up.  There has obviously been "tangible progress" in the Iraqi security forces considering there was nearly none when he took the job in 2004 due to Paul Bremmer’s decision to disband the Iraqi Army.  Now the Iraqi Army has been rebuilt to the point that now the city of Mosul the third largest city in Iraq is held by Iraqi security forces with the assistance of one US infantry battalion.  That is "tangible progress".  

Likewise the claim "Iraqi leaders are stepping forward" is also true.  There are hundreds of nameless Iraqis leading Iraqi Army units that are doing great work.  If you want an example of an Iraqi stepping forward than I challenge everyone to read Bing West’s book No True Glory and tell me that Lieutenant Colonel Suleiman al Marawi is not an Iraqi hero that was "stepping forward" in 2004 when General Petraeus wrote his editorial. 

Every independent report on the ground situation in Iraq shows that the surge strategy has failed. Yet the General claims a reduction in violence.

What is interesting in each of the independent reports no where in them does the reports declare "the surge strategy has failed".  Here is what the GAO report says:

Reconciliation was also premised on a reduction in violence. While the Baghdad security plan was intended to reduce sectarian violence, it is unclear whether violence has been reduced. Measuring such violence may be difficult since the perpetrators’ intents are not clearly known. Other measures, such as the number of enemy-initiated attacks, show that violence has remained high through July 2007.

I talk about the problems with measuring secretarian violence below but notice that the GAO report did not include August’s numbers:

If you look at the above graph attacks were high with the beginning of the Baghdad Security Plan in February along with the Surge Strategy beginning in June because the US forces went on the offensive.  When you go on the offensive you are looking to get attacked thus it should not be any surprise when the number of attacks rise.  Now in August the attacks have dropped significantly because the offensive operations were largely successful and gain are currently being consolidated. 

August’s civilian casualties dropped significantly as well despite the largest mass casualty attack ever in Iraq that killed over 500 people in the remote Yazidi enclave near Syria.

Obviously the GAO report does not support Moveon.org’s claims of "the surge strategy has failed". 

Let’s now look at the NIE report.  Here is the ultimate conclusion of the entire NIE report:

There have been measurable but uneven improvements in Iraq’s security situation
since our last National Intelligence Estimate on Iraq in January 2007. The steep
escalation of rates of violence has been checked for now, and overall attack levels across Iraq
have fallen during seven of the last nine weeks. Coalition forces, working with Iraqi forces,
tribal elements, and some Sunni insurgents, have reduced al-Qa’ida in Iraq’s (AQI)
capabilities, restricted its freedom of movement, and denied it grassroots support in some
areas. However, the level of overall violence, including attacks on and casualties among
civilians, remains high; Iraq’s sectarian groups remain unreconciled; AQI retains the
ability to conduct high-profile attacks; and to date, Iraqi political leaders remain
unable to govern effectively. There have been modest improvements in economic
output, budget execution, and government finances but fundamental structural
problems continue to prevent sustained progress in economic growth and living
conditions.

We assess, to the extent that Coalition forces continue to conduct robust
counterinsurgency operations and mentor and support the Iraqi Security Forces (ISF),
that Iraq’s security will continue to improve modestly during the next six to 12 months
but that levels of insurgent and sectarian violence will remain high and the Iraqi
Government will continue to struggle to achieve national-level political reconciliation
and improved governance.

The NIE actually says that their are "modest improvements" and here is what it had to say about the counterinsurgency strategy of working with Iraqi tribal leaders:

The IC assesses that the emergence of “bottom-up” security initiatives, principally
among Sunni Arabs and focused on combating AQI, represent the best prospect for
improved security over the next six to 12 months, but we judge these initiatives will only
translate into widespread political accommodation and enduring stability if the Iraqi
Government accepts and supports them.

Here is what it says about changing the surge strategy:

We assess that changing the mission of Coalition forces from a primarily
counterinsurgency and stabilization role to a primary combat support role for Iraqi
forces and counterterrorist operations to prevent AQI from establishing a safehaven
would erode security gains achieved thus far.

If anything the NIE report is actually supportive of the surge strategy.  No where in the NIE does it say "the surge strategy has failed" as Moveon.org claims.  

The final independent report cited is the Jones Report.  This report was prepared by a team lead by retired Marine General James Jones.  This report is 152 pages and is actually quite good.  The report focuses on the status of the Iraqi Security Forces and is not a report used to judge the progress of the surge.  How Moveon.org can claim this report supports their claim that "the surge strategy has failed" is anyone’s guess.  This report is long and detailed which means most people in Congress probably will not read it which is a shame.  I however highly recommend everyone to read it in its entirety.

Here is what the report’s findings were in regards to the Iraqi Security Services:

Though the report was not commissioned to report on the surge strategy in Iraq in its last chapter beginning on page 125 the writers make note of things they felt were relevant to the national debate about Iraq that they saw during their three week visit to Iraq.  One of the things they commented on was the surge strategy:

"There are some encouraging indications of a positive trend in this region" is a far cry from "the surge strategy has failed" that Moveon.org claims. 

Now lets look at the claim in the ad attributed to the New York Times and the Washington Post:

That’s because, according to the New York Times, the Pentagon has adopted a bizarre formula for keeping tabs on violence. For example, deaths by car bombs don’t count. The Washington Post reported that assassinations only count if you’re shot in the back of the head — not the front. According to the Associated Press, there have been more civilian deaths and more American soldier deaths in the past three months than in any other summer we’ve been there. We’ll hear of neighborhoods where violence has decreased. But we won’t hear that those neighborhoods have been ethnically cleansed.

Here is what the New York Times actually said:

Nonetheless, some trends are down. The number of car bombs in Baghdad is an important measure, since many are directed at civilians and the overarching American goal is to break the cycle of internecine violence. In June, July and August of 2006, the average monthly number of car bombs in the Baghdad metropolitan area was 42. In 2007, however, the average for the same three-month period was 23, the same number as in 2005.

The number of deaths in sectarian violence is also a key indicator. According to the American military count, the August total for the 10 security districts in Baghdad was 321, down from 1,621 in December when such attacks were at a high. […]

American officials concede that it is not always easy to distinguish sectarian killings and criminally motivated murders. Victims from car bombs are treated as sectarian casualties if the attack appears to be directed at a sectarian or ethnic group. The August truck bombings that killed hundreds of Yazidis in northern Iraq and the July car bombs that killed many Kurds near Tuz, for example, were classified as sectarian attacks.

Casualties that result from fighting between groups, like the Mahdi Army and the Badr Corps, however, are not classified as sectarian, as they are the result of clashes between two Shiite organizations. But victims of all car bomb attacks and Shiite and Sunni infighting are included in the overall civilian casualty count. [Michael Gordon, New York Times]

This article is by Michael Gordon who has been an outstanding reporter for the NY Times in Iraq and you can clearly see that Moveon.org has totally mischaracterized his comments about classifying car bombs as secretarian violence or not. 

Now lets look at what the Washington Post article actually said:

The intelligence community has its own problems with military calculations. Intelligence analysts computing aggregate levels of violence against civilians for the NIE puzzled over how the military designated attacks as combat, sectarian or criminal, according to one senior intelligence official in Washington. "If a bullet went through the back of the head, it’s sectarian," the official said. "If it went through the front, it’s criminal." [Karen DeYoung, Washington Post]

So if the military finds a body in the street with a bullet hole in the head there is no way to verifiably know how the person died, but much subjective analysis can be made depending on the area of operations.  If the area is known for secretarian violence and soldiers on patrol find five bodies with holes in the back of their heads that is a pretty good indication that they were probably killed by a death squad.  If soldiers on patrol find a body with bullets in the front of the head and lets say the guy has no wallet then an assumption can also be made that the person was robbed.  Can you be 100% certain it wasn’t secretarian violence?  No, but the bottom line is that the person is still be counted. 

Another thing that bothers me is that these hit piece articles from the media are almost always sourced by unnamed "senior intelligence officials".   Who are these people?  What access to military statistics if any do they have?  If you are going to slime someone in the pages of the Washington Post shouldn’t you have the courage to stand up and say who you are and what your qualifications are to slime them?  

Finally this what the AP article actually said:

However, figures compiled by the AP from police reports nationwide show that at least 1,809 civilians were killed across the country last month compared with 1,760 in July. That brings to 27,564 the number of Iraqi civilians killed since AP began collecting data on April 28, 2005.

According to the AP count, civilian deaths reached a high point during the wave of sectarian bombings, kidnappings and killings at the end of last year — 2,172 in December and 1,967 in the previous month.
[Associated Press]

The AP is getting numbers from the same Iraqi police that the Jones Report already highly criticized as being unreliable and corrupt.  Additionally the AP’s reliance on their Iraqi police contacts has been unreliable in the past which was shown by the Jamil Hussein controversy where the AP’s Iraqi police contact fabricated stories about secretarian violence and burnt down mosques in Baghdad.  Are the AP’s civilian casualty numbers coming from Jamil Hussein as well?  They claim 1,809 civilian casualties in August which is up from their count in July.  As you can see below the US military is tracking about 1,600 deaths in August:

Also keep in mind that the August number is inflated by the over 500 people who died in the one Yazidi attack mentioned earlier.  Al Qaida targeted the Yazidi camp in the middle of no where because of the surge strategy pushing them out of the major population centers.  So the had to find some people to kill somewhere just so the AP can run an article like this one claiming civilian casualties are up.  The Yazidis were the easy target.  If that attack is prevented, suddenly you have an even much steeper drop of civilian casualties in August.   As I mentioned before soldier deaths are up compared to prior summers because there are more US soldiers in Iraq conducting offensive operations. 

I have clearly shown the entire premise behind the Moveon.org ad is clearly false and entirely a smear campaign against General Petraeus.  Like I said before the left and their media allies need to destroy Petraeus because they fear him and groups like Moveon.org are their preferred method to smear him.  Despite the totally factually challenged assertions in the Moveon.org advertisement none of the leading Democratic Presidential candidates will condemn this smear attack and defend General Petraeus.  This is just another example that the American left does not support the troops and they never have. 

More reaction from:
Michelle Malkin
Blackfive
Rhiel World View

People Who Mattered in Korea: Samyeong-daesa

kunbongsa2
Entrance to Geonbong Temple

Geonbongsa is a little known, but historically significant Buddhist Temple in Korea. Geonbongsa is located in the foothills of North Korea’s famous Kumgangsan Mountain that stretches south across the Demilitarized Zone into South Korea. The temple could not even be visited until 1989 due to the temple’s proximity to the DMZ between North and South Korea. The temple is off the beaten path, but is a worth while side trip for those who may be visiting Soraksan Mountain to the south of the temple.

Geonbongsa was first built in 521AD and was named Wongaksa. Later during the Goreyo Dynasty it was remodeled and given it’s present name of Geonbongsa. During King Sejo’s reign (1455-1468) he made the temple his royal praying temple in 1465 and built a large royal tower on the temple’s grounds. This brought the temple much notoriety and it quickly became one of the Top 4 most important temples in Korea responsible for 31 subordinate temples in it’s jurisdiction.

kunbongsa3
The main temple area of Geonbongsa.

During the Japanese Toyotomi Hideyoshi, invasion of Korea in 1592, the Japanese destroyed the temple and took a relic of the holy Buddha, a tooth, that had been enshrined in the temple. The head priest of the temple, Samyeong-daesa, raised an army of 6,000 warrior monks to battle the Japanese in an effort to regain the holy Buddhist relic. Samyeong-daesa would later move his base of operations from Geonbongsa further south to Gounsa temple near Andong to continue his fight against the Japanese.

During the invasion of Korea the Japanese did not expect heavy Korean resistance because Korea had a very weak national army and government due to the ineffective leadership of the Yangban class and internal infighting which was ruled by King Seonjo at the time of the invasion. The Japanese initially had no problems defeating the Korean forces and the Battle of Sangju is just one example of this.

kunbongsa6
One of the outer temples of Geonbong Temple.

Later bogged down by Korea’s mountainous terrain, poor roads, and the entry of the Chinese Ming Army into the war the Japanese supply lines and outposts became easy targets for what became known as Korea’s “Righteous Army”, which were bands of nationalistic guerrilla fighters intent on defending Korea. Samyeong-daesa’s warrior monks were heavily respected part of the “Righteous Army” by the Japanese. In fact so respected was Samyeong-daesa that he was allowed to enter the Japanese Seosaengpo Fortress near Ulsan four times, where he asked for the holy relic back. He was unfortunately denied the holy relic each time.

kunbongsa7
A picture of the shaman mountain god San-shin, in a shrine dedicated to Samyeong-daesa.

By 1598 due to the Ming Army, the Korean resistance, and the heroic naval exploits of Korean Admiral Yi Sun-shin combined with the death of Toyotomi Hideyoshi, the Japanese forces finally withdrew from Korea. However, Samyeong-daesa still didn’t have his holy relic to enshrine back in his beloved Geonbongsa Temple.

In 1604 Samyeong-daesa left Korea as an envoy of the Korean government to go to Japan. In Japan Samyeong-daesa was allowed to meet with the ruling Japanese Shogun Tokugawa Ieyasu who had consolidated power in Japan after Hideyoshi’s death. Tokugawa no doubt held respect for Samyeong-daesa since he was a proven leader and warrior for the Korean resistance during the occupation of Korea. In a display of this respect Tokugawa gave Samyeong-daesa 3,500 Korean prisoners and his holy relic back to return to Geonbongsa, which he did in 1605.

kunbongsa4
One of the few remaining artifacts from the original temple.

To this day the holy relic is still enshrined in Geonbongsa Temple even after the temple was destroyed again during the Korean War. The temple has been rebuilt since the war, but it still has not reached it’s past grandeuar as one of the Top 4 temples in Korea. The echos of it’s past glory is still evident by the number of stone foundations that surround the present day compound.

kunbongsa5
The temple is surrounded by old foundations and is ringed by the foot hills of Kumgang mountain.

The temple has an elaborate museum near the entrance that shows many artifacts from the temple’s history and also has a number of video displays highlighting Samyeong-daesa’s warrior monks courageous actions against the Japanese.

kunbongsa1
Elaborate museum honoring the warrior monk Samyeong-daesa

The temple is still under construction as it continues to expand in hopes of recreating it’s past glory. However, visitors looking for something off the beaten path with small crowds will be well served by visiting this little known but historically significant temple in Korea.